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She’s throwing a flimsy dupatta around her shoulders. Her hair is plastered with henna and scraped on top of her head so that it looks like a little pile of dung. Her beard is just beginning to show, and her eye makeup has melted slightly in the heat. She hesitates and stops to look at me. After a few moments she reaches out, adjusts my dupatta, and traces her fingers over my face. “Beautiful,” she laughs and kisses her fingertips. She catches hold of my hand and tells me her name is Tasneem. We dance back down toward the Badshahi Masjid and turn into a narrow passage barely lit by the sun filtering through the space between the houses forty or fifty feet above us.

The khusras take it in turns to dance. Tasneem is teaching me a combination of foot movements and the slender visitor performs an energetic routine of twists and flourishes. And then the dance group’s guru shows us how it really should be done. About 40, with a muscular build, heavy features, and long black hair, she’s the striking T 48 The Dancing Girls of Lahore person I saw in the street on one of my first nights in the bazaar. Her name is White Flower and she owns the khusra house. The others whisper and nod to me knowingly.

They talk about the past and how much better it was before things were spoilt by cheap women in their low-class khoti khanas— the name given to the worst kind of brothel run by male pimps. O 42 The Dancing Girls of Lahore “When we were young we lived in India. That’s where we are from,” the oldest woman explains. “In India we sang for the aristocracy. We worked for the Maharaja of Patiala. We were his servants. “In those days it was different. We had high status and were respected. We were trained as singers and dancers and we had to practice for hours every day.

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